Kangaroo Explorer

After 3 days of straight rain and overcast skies, Andrew and I decide we need to book something fast, or go stir crazy staying cooped up in our hostel.  After checking out a few different options we decide to book a liveaboard dive boat with Cairns Dive Center.  For just under $500 we get 2 nights’ accommodation onboard their liveaboard shipped parked in the middle of the reef, 3 days of meals, 10 dives and we can upgrade our open water certification to an advanced certification.  There are lots of other options out there, but this is by far the best option in terms of cost, and also offering the advanced scuba course.

We pack our day bags and head out early Monday morning to the boat that will take us out to the liveaboard ship.  After being sick on the Yongala dive, we planned ahead and took sea sickness medication, and with so many people looking green on this boat ride, we were very glad that we did.

2 hours later we arrive at the Kangaroo Explorer, our home for the next 3 days.  With no time to waste, we’re given the tour of the boat, and head straight into our first dive briefing.  Accommodations are simple, double bed with ensuite, more than enough for the little time we are here.  After our dive brief, we are sized up and suited up and into the water we go.  The first dive is guided to assess everyone’s skill level, and to give everyone a layout of the first dive site.  The water here is a warm 24 degrees, the warmest water we’ve had the chance to dive in so far, but still not warm enough to forego the wetsuit.

Some Friendly Marine Life

The reef does not disappoint with hundreds of different coral formations and dozens of different fish varieties.  Over the next few days we dive at 3 different sites as we go through the advanced course – diving at night, deep diving, navigation and getting in and out of a small boat with our equipment.  The sun finally comes out on day 2 which makes the diving even more spectacular with the colourful coral illuminated from the sunlight.  The days start early here with a wake up call each day at 5:45 am – one dive before breakfast, and two more before lunch with a nice long break in the afternoon for sun tanning or a much needed nap, before doing a 4 pm dive or another evening dive.

With 3 days on the boat we’ve doubled our certified dives from 10 to 20, and are now qualified to dive to 30 meters and to dive at night.  I think we are all dived out in Australia for now, but are looking forward to the diversity of fish life and coral that Thailand and Indonesia have to offer.  It’s another early night to bed once we get back on the mainland, with our last day in Cairns tomorrow before flying to Perth for the last leg of our Australia journey.

Just another grade 4 rapid!

It’s our last day in Cairns with our friend Michelle, who came with us from Hayman Island, so to end our time together on a bang we sign up for Xtreme white water rafting down the Tully River with Raging Thunder tour operators. Our day starts at 6:30 am with a two hour drive down to the launching point, if you’re staying at Mission Beach it’s only a 45 minutes bus ride so catch it from there if you can.  Once we start getting close to the drop off location, our guides for the day fill us in on what we can look forward to on our Xtreme rafting packing – level 3 and 4 grade rapids, cliff jumping, and raft tipping are just some of the events planned for today.  If you are looking for a cruisey ride down a river, this is not the trip for you.

A high pressure wash

We break off into our small groups and into the rafts we go.  With a few brief lessons on paddling and how to handle the rapids we are launched down the river. Our first rapid of the day, the “Alarm Clock” is a grade 4 rapid, and is certainly a wakeup call for those who may still be a bit groggy. After the first wave the boat is soaked, along with everyone who managed to hold on to it.  If you didn’t get wet there, it’s immediately out of the boat for some practise at floating down the river over a few rapids, in case it should happen later in the day.  Once everyone’s been successfully rescued its back into the boat for a dozen or so more grade 4 rapids.

If that hasn’t gotten your heart racing enough yet, it’s time for cliff jumping.  Now for those who know me, nothing scares me more than the thought of jumping off cliffs into the water.  Even sky diving somehow seems safer and less frightening, but after climbing up the rocks there is no turning back with everyone shouting “Jump, Jump!” from the water down below.  I know I’ll never hear the end of it if I don’t do it, so I close my eyes and propel myself off the 4 meter high cliff and into the waters below.  Definitely scarier than sky diving.

Team Xrteme

After a quick break for some lunch it’s back on the water again, no need to wait those 30 minutes to digest – this is Xtreme rafting after all.  Lots of practise tipping rafts here, and just in case you haven’t experience what near drowning feels like, the guides throw you back out of the boat and down the “Drowning Simulator”, a series of waves that sucks you under as each one goes over top of you.

After 5 hours on the water, it’s back on the bus again for a much needed rest. It was a long day but an amazing experience.  There are definitely going to be lots of sore muscles tomorrow, and maybe even a few bruises, but that’s what the Xtreme tour is with Raging Thunder Rapids is all about.

Does this scenario sound familiar? It’s a beautiful day out and you’re taking a stroll through the woods, but within minutes you hear the awful buzzing sound of mosquitoes.  You’ve forgotten to apply bug spray and before you know it the attack begins.  You instantly feel itchy everywhere as you slap them away, running at full speed to get back to the car, at this point already covered in bites, while your partner doesn’t even seem to notice them, not getting a single bite the entire time? This has been the story of my life, constantly covering myself in bug spray, or terribly regretting it if I forgot.

The easy and natural way to ward off mosquitoes

Then, I was at the pharmacy last week picking up some more bug spray, when the woman behind the counter asked if I had tried taking B1 vitamins to help combat mosquitoes? Increasing your B1 vitamin level supposedly wards off mosquitoes, sand flies and midges.  Simply take one teaspoon a day of the liquid vitamins until the bottle is gone and the compounds effectiveness lasts for life.  For life! What an easy and pain free solution that definitely beats being covered in bug spray from head to toe all the time.  For only $24.99 for the bottle I figure I might as well give it a try – here’s hoping my mosquito bite days are over!

After 3 months on a remote island and the last week spent in small towns along the east coast of Australia, arriving in Cairns is a welcomed change.  Although the population is just under the 200,000 mark, it’s the biggest town north of Brisbane by a significant amount. The city of Cairns is a mash up between the major tourist hub of the north, with half of the storefronts as tourist agencies, and a metropolitan centre, with museums, art galleries and upscale restaurants.

THE place to stay in Cairns

We’re staying at Gilligan’s Backpackers – which if you haven’t heard of before you get to Cairns, is “The” backpackers of the north.  With 700 beds, a giant bar, and it’s very own lagoon, Gilligan’s takes up almost an entire block in the heart of the city.  The facilities are brand new, and each dorm room has its own ensuite, a nice change from communal bathrooms.  Hostel competition is fierce in the city, expect to get free meals at most places and vouchers for free entry to bars, cheap drinks etc. and while Gilligan’s may cost a few dollars more a night, you generally get what you pay for.

We arrived just in time to catch the kick off of the Cairns City Festival.  It feels like all 200,000 residents and backpackers are out in the city, enjoying the street performers and the dozens of booths set up selling trinkets and food.  It all comes to a climax with a parade down the Esplanade and fireworks works to end the evening.

Not bad for no beach

The only thing Cairns is lacking is a beach – surprising for a city in Australia.  There are a number of great beaches north of Cairns, but you’ll need to catch the bus or hire a car to get there.  The city has compensated for this by building a large lagoon style pool that overlooks the water – similar to the lagoon in Airlie Beach.  With the temperature getting up into the mid 30’s everyday the lagoon is always busy with people looking to cool off from the afternoon heat.

It looks like there will be no shortage of activities to fill the 12 days we have to spend here in Cairns, from scuba diving, hang gliding, white rafting, shopping and relaxing pool side, Cairns offers lots of ways to spend your hard earned cash.

Not bad for backpackers

After spending two days in some rustic living conditions up at Cape Tribulation, driving into Port Douglas is wonderfully refreshing.  Port Douglas is the glamorous older sibling of Cairns.  With its upscale restaurants, plush accommodations, golf course and million dollar homes, it’s where the wealthy go to retire, and with a “Friends and Family” discount thanks to Andrew’s brother, we are able to afford a bit of luxury ourselves at the Sheraton Mirage hotel.  18 pools, a golf course, luxurious rooms and exquisite bars and restaurants are a few of the standout features at the hotel.  When you add showering without flip flops, no bunk beds, free slippers and bathroom amenities, this place has it all! Although I have to admit, this place is no competition for Hayman.

We immediately head pool side, and with drinks in hand, our day of luxury begins. After several hours in the sun and a few cocktails, it’s time for a night out on the town.  Not only do we get a great discount on rooms with our “Friends and Family” connection, we also get 50% off all the restaurants and bars. I highly recommend becoming close friends with someone who works for the Starwood Properties group of hotels. We iron our wrinkled backpacker clothes and spruce ourselves up for a dinner at the Zen Gardens.

Mmm . . . Crocodiles!

One of the first things we notice on the menu is the deep fried crocodile.  Andrew and I haven’t tried any yet, and with only a few more weeks in Australia, there’s no time like the present.  When the food arrives, we hesitate for a moment before we dive right in. It has a tough texture, but tastes just like chicken. An interesting twist on the day as we went from seeing live crocodiles on the river this morning to eating them deep fried for dinner.

"Yard" - Let's hope he's not hungry!

After two nights in the rain forest up in Cape Tribulation, its time to head back to civilization again but not before stopping for a crocodile tour on the Daintree River.  Just before the ferry crossing heading north, there are several crocodile tour companies, all offering an up close and personal experience with the crocodiles that live in the river.

We head out on the Crocodile Express keeping a sharp eye to the river banks in hopes of spotting our first (and hopefully only!) wild crocodile.  Within a few short minutes we have already spotted our first large male, “Yard” as they call him since he only has three feet.  At almost 3 meters long, Yard does not disappoint.  He doesn’t seem to be bothered by our visit, until the boat creeps a bit too close for his liking and he slips gracefully into the water with only his large nostrils and snout remaining visible at the surface.

Baby Croc

Around the bend and nestled into the undergrowth of the trees is a young crocodile, our driver estimates at about 1 to 2 years old.  With only 1 out of every 100 making it until adulthood, chances of survival on the river are dim with predators both from the skies, and from other rival males, 1 hour and 4 more crocs later, our boat returns to the dock with all passengers alive and well.  Back in the car again, we wave good-bye Cape Tribulation and its ominous setting, as we head towards more luxurious surroundings in Port Douglas.

Milla Milla Falls

Back on the road again, we leave Mission beach to make our way to the most northern accessible point of Queensland, Cape Tribulation. Instead of staying on the coast, we take the inland route which takes us by a number of waterfalls and scenic lookouts.  Waterfall circuit, a 16 km loop has 3 breathtakingly beautiful waterfalls, the highlight of which is Milla Milla falls, which is over 12 meters high and makes for a great photo opportunity.

Making our way towards Cape Trib, we see the landscape begin to change from sugar cane fields and farmlands to tropical forests. The vegetation is lush and dense, and with the Misty Mountains set as a backdrop, it’s the perfect setting for a scene out of Jurassic Park.  North of Port Douglas the road begins to wind as we start climbing up the mountains and into the forest. Just getting to Cape Trib is half the fun with a narrow winding road surrounded by overhanging trees and vines and stunning views of the coast.

Daintree River Crossing

The entrance to Cape Trib is marked by the crossing of the Daintree river. A ferry transports you and your car across every 15 minutes. Once on the other side you have officially entered the rainforest with very few signs of civilization left.  Make sure you stock up on food, petrol and other supplies before you head out.

Beaches in Cape Tribulation

The beaches here are right out of a movie with the jungle vegetation coming right up to the white sand, and signs warning of crocodiles lurking around each river bend.  There are numerous walking paths which wind their way through the forest and pop out at each of the beaches for another breathtaking view.  Cape Tribulation is the perfect illustration of Australia’s diverse landscape – from cities to farmland, desert to rainforest, and beach after beach of white sand, there are so many great experiences to be had in the land down under.

After a few hours of driving yesterday afternoon, we arrived in the very small town of Ayr, about 3 hours north of Airlie Beach.  Surrounded by fields of sugar cane on three sides and a beach in front of us, there really isn’t much else to see or do here other than go diving on the famous S.S. Yongala ship wreck.  It sank almost 100 years ago, with all lives on board being lost, and “it remains one of Australia’s most intriguing maritime mysteries.”

S.S Yongala Shipwreck

With the wind blowing at 12-15 knots our skipper informs us that it’s going to be a bumpy ride.  After 30 minutes of rough waves we arrive at the dive site, with everyone on the boat looking a little green and eager to get in the water. Where’s a Hayman yacht when you need one?  Within minutes we are geared up and back flipping off the boat into the rough seas.  The sea sickness finally subsides as we descend down the mooring line to the shipwreck below.  Within seconds the giant shipwreck comes into view, surrounded by so much fish life, it makes the Great Barrier Reef look empty. Thousands of bait fish cover the outside of the ship moving in sync like a pair of lungs inhaling and exhaling.  Coral of all varieties and colours has completely encrusted the ship, so that only the vague outline of it can be seen.  Sea snakes gracefully swim around and through our group, as a moray eel pops his head out to see what the commotion is about. Half a dozen giant marble rays can be seen nestled in the ocean floor, each more than a meter across while a guitar shark slowly swims across the stern of the ship. Parts of the boiler room and engine remain intact – a grave reminder to the many lives that were lost here 100 years ago.

Diving the S.S. Yongala should be a must- do on any scuba divers list.  With its diversity of marine life, pristine location and  sheer size, the only thing missing from this perfect dive was the anti-nausea medication.

It will be exactly 3 months and 3 weeks when we depart Hayman Island on Monday morning, but it feels like only yesterday we were unpacking our bags and getting our uniforms for work.  Now we are starting to pack up, clean our rooms and plan the next phase of our journey.

Our Hayman Family

Many of our favourite experiences on this trip so far have been here at Hayman – getting certified to scuba dive, sky diving, a seaplane to Whitehaven and beach drop offs to remote islands.  But the best part of living here was having the opportunity to develop so many great friendships.  3 months on Hayman is equal to years of knowing someone in the “real” world.  When you live, eat and work together every single day, you get to know people really well, really fast. I have come to appreciate Facebook and email even more for their ability to keep in touch with the people we have met along this journey. As we leave Hayman behind for our next adventure I will certainly be looking forward to seeing people again, whether it’s in Canada or on another journey around the world.

At almost 11 months into our journey here in Australia, today is a day that happens only once a year – my birthday.  And while I have celebrated a few birthdays abroad, I would have never imagined that I would be spending my 26^th on Hayman Island.  Sky diving was the official “gift” from Andrew which we did a few weeks ago, so this way we would have the whole day to celebrate on Hayman.

Jumping for Joy

We started the day off with a buffet breakfast at the Azure restaurant, with the “Canadian crew” plus one Aussie thrown in for good measure, (just joking Matt).   A little champagne and O.J plus a million dollar view of the beach, made it feel like we were staying at a fancy resort instead of just working at one.  After stuffing our faces with delicious breakfast food, it’s off to the island of Bali Hai for the afternoon to sleep off our food comas, as if one remote island for the day isn’t enough.  Upon returning back to Hayman, there is another surprise waiting, Andrew and my parents have been scheming to arrange chocolates, wine and flowers dropped off in our absence.  It’s not the first time they have surprised me with such a wonderful gift, and hopefully it won’t be the last!

Relaxing at Bali Hai

The best part of the day, was having such great friends to share the celebration with.  Not knowing where we would be when we started our travels in Australia almost a year ago, it has certainly worked out in my favour to be celebrating in a place with such a great community of people who went out their way to make the day so special. With less than two weeks left here on Hayman it was bittersweet, knowing that we will be saying good-bye to so many amazing people, but also looking forward to the new adventures to come.